Fumet Shopping Tips
A fresh fish should not smell fishy or have milky, opaque eyes; it should have bright red gills, firm flesh, and a fresh ocean scent.
Fumet Cooking Tips
Whole fish should be stored upright in ice in the refrigerator on the bottom shelf.
The ACF’s Top 10 Recipes of All Time
I t’s no surprise that one of the most popular parts of the American Culinary Federation’s website is the recipe section. Our professional chefs know what they’re doing. Those in need of some cooking guidance know that sometimes, a blogger’s Pinterest post just isn’t going to cut it. (Plus, who has time to scroll through 800 words about the weekend?)
So we’ve gathered the top ten most popular recipes of all time from the ACF’s site in one place, in case you need something with a professional’s touch and the upvotes of thousands of cooks who came before you.
10. Yuzu Soy Dressing
A great salad is a catalyst for the modern, health-conscious diner, Jonathon Sawyer, chef/owner of The Greenhouse Tavern in Cleveland told the National Culinary Review in 2014. The $7 Super Salad he introduced two years ago consists of kale, orange segments, adzuki beans, quinoa, millet and spelt, fresh blueberries, avocado, granola and this yuzu soy dressing.
9. Central Texas Beef Brisket Barbecue with Traditional Sides
As he worked on the classical Central Texas beef brisket recipe for Sizzle Summer 2016, then-Kendall College Culinary Arts student Nate Marsh was impressed with the simplicity of the rub — salt and pepper only. “That’s all you need to make a great crust,” he says. He also saw the importance of making sure the meat is at room temperature going into the smoker to ensure the best smoke penetration and even cooking.
8. Classic Veal Oscar
Béarnaise — a classical component of veal Oscar — is Lisa Tower’s favorite sauce. Tower, a culinary student at Keiser University when this recipe appeared in Sizzle’s Summer 2015 issue, enjoys the marriage of flavors and its versatility with food. The sauce works well with starches, vegetables, meat and fish. She prefers béarnaise on the acidic side and stays away from the pudding texture common for the sauce by going easy on the fat. “You don’t want to add more than 6 oz. of oil per yolk or the product will break,” she says.
7. Filet de Sole Marie Walewska
Peter Timmins, CMC made this recipe for the Spring 2008 issue of Sizzle and it’s still a favorite on our website today.
“An Escoffier recipe, named after Napoleon Bonaparte’s Polish mistress, the recipe set out by Escoffier is all of five lines,” Timmins says. “But in those five lines, he calls out a few of the fundamentals of classical cookery: poach, fumet, Mornay.”
6. Puerto Rican Mofongo
Hot dogs, hamburgers and tacos were pioneers, but today, chefs travel far and wide to bring back from their adventures street foods such as kaya toast, pani puri and mofongo.
“When I travel, street food is all I eat,” says Anthony Lamas, chef/owner of Seviche in Louisville, Ky. “I travel to Latin American countries to get a taste of the authentic flavors. I want to see it and taste it, and then I give it my own twist when I bring it back to Louisville.”
5. Julia Child’s Bouillabaisse with Rouille
Bouillabaisse is made with an assortment of fish and shellfish, onions, tomatoes, white wine, olive oil, garlic, saffron and herbs, according to the Food Lover’s Companion (Baron’s Educational Series, Inc., 2007). The dish’s name is derived from its cooking method, in which the broth comes to a boil and the seafood is added one variety at a time. In many classic versions the stew is ladled over thick slices of French bread.
Maureen Brandt and Jomae Walo, who both worked on the Royal Caribbean cruise ship Allure of the Seas when this recipe appeared in Sizzle’s Spring 2012 issue, chose to demonstrate Julia Child’s bouillabaisse with rouille because of its flavors and colors, and because it allowed them to bring fresh seafood on the boat to work with and enjoy — a rare treat.
4. Lemon Curd, Microwave Pistachio Sponge Cake, Green Apple Sorbet and Greek Yogurt
Whether plating desserts like this one in a hotel restaurant or white-tablecloth temple of gastronomy or for a buffet, pastry chefs agree on a few basic tenets to make the most impact. According to Antonio Bachour, executive pastry chef at The St. Regis Bal Harbour Resort, Miami, the first is that dessert must exhibit the “wow” factor. This Lemon Curd, Microwave Pistachio Sponge Cake, Green Apple Sorbet and Greek Yogurt recipe obviously has it, according to our readers.
3. Thai Salad Rolls with Peanut Dipping Sauce
There’s something tempting about an attractive display of small plates offered at a favorite bar. Whether you sample one as an appetizer to the main meal or a half-dozen as dinner, the nice thing about bar food is there’s usually something for everyone. Like these Thai salad rolls with peanut dipping sauce that appeared in a 2016 issue of the National Culinary Review.
2. Mirror Glaze
Black Forest cake remains a German tradition and a staple in many restaurants. When Casey Shiller, CEPC, CCE, AAC created a modern version of the classic cake with his former student Maisam Ghannam, they coated the cake in this mirror glaze — a stunning finisher that will turn heads when used on just about any dessert. “To create a modern plated dessert, you need to have a stunning main component,” Shiller says.
1. Texas Twinkies
One day, Dustin Blackwell thought to make a little something different for employees to snack on at McKinney, Texas-based Hutchins BBQ, where he is co-owner/general manager. He came up with brisket/cream cheese-stuffed jalapeños rolled in thick-cut bacon and smoked. He decided to sell them as appetizers, and went from peddling 40 that weekend less than two years ago to about 2,000 per weekend.
The wild popularity of what are now called Texas Twinkies required hiring two employees to work 10 hours a day each, four days a week, just to prepare the peppers. Because of the labor intensity, the rolls are available Friday through Sunday only.
High-brow cuisine they aren’t, but Texas Twinkies are far and away the most popular recipe on acfchefs.org. It just goes to show that almost everyone can agree on brisket, cream cheese and bacon.
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Wash the fish bones under cold water to remove excess blood and protein. (Note: you can soak them in salt water overnight to remove even more blood.) Place the bones in a stockpot and fill the pot with enough water to cover the bones.
Add the onions, leeks, celery, carrots, and fennel, along with the garlic, thyme, peppercorns, parsley, and bay leaves to the stockpot. Place the stockpot over medium-low heat and bring to a simmer. As the water begins to simmer, a scum will start to form at the top remove the scum by skimming with a ladle or large spoon. Never bring this stock to a boil, as it will lose all clarity. Pull the stockpot slightly off the heat this will allow a slow convection of heat in the pot that moves the scum to one side of the pot for easy removal. Continue skimming frequently. Cook the stock for at least 2 hours.
Remove the stockpot from the heat and allow it to cool slowly. Strain the stock through a chinois into another large stockpot. Place the stockpot with the strained stock back on the stove over medium heat and bring it to a simmer. Continue to skim the scum and fat off the top. Allow the stock to reduce by one-third.
Remove the pot from the heat and place it in an ice bath. When the stock is cold, place it in small containers and refrigerate it for up to 1 week or freeze it for up to 4 months.
Broth-Based and Delicious
As you can see, brothy soups aren’t just limited to the kind of tasteless, single-ingredient soups that they serve in the hospital.
Broth-based soups can be made up of pretty much anything, from seafood to veggies, or even hearty beef.
Try incorporating one or two of these tasty soups into your dinner rotation and taste the deliciousness for yourself.
Easy, Fast, and Nutritious Meals
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“I love to cook fennel whole and roasted. I prepare them simply with salt, pepper and EVOO. When I go to roast them, I cover with aluminum foil.”
“I actually don&apost like to cook fennel. When it’s raw, I shave it down to be paper thin with a knife or mandolin. I soak it in ice water so that it curls up, almost looking like curly fries, and use it for fennel salad. The salad I make is the fennel tossed in pure buttermilk with salt, pepper and fresh chives. It’s great on its own but also great for toppings on a sandwich, with fish, and more.”
This French-style tomato sauce differs from its Italian counterparts in that it’s thickened with roux and enriched with veal stock. Kate Berry
This enriched tomato sauce is the French interpretation of the base most often appearing in the company of pasta. The key difference from most Italian versions is a starter roux of salt pork, butter, and flour. Never olive oil. One of its best-known daughters is the sunny sauce Provençal, made fragrant with the addition of capers, olives and herbes de Provence.
Peggy Turbett, The Plain Dealer A roasted egg and apple-walnut charoset set on the Seder plate with (counter-clockwise) onion, lamb shank, parsley and horseradish root for the Passover meal, prepared by Nancy Heller of Solon.
Gefilte fish, which originally meant stuffed whole fish but now refers to a fish quenelle or "meatball," is easier to make from scratch than you might think, writes the recipe's author, Nancy Heller. "The key is to find a good fishmonger -- the best I have found in the Greater Cleveland area for this purpose is Mister Brisket, who will get fresh fish, fillet it and grind the fillets with or without onion, as you choose, and present you with two bags that are virtually all you need to make your own beautiful gefilte fish." Follow this recipe and you will never buy a jar of fish again.
Gefilte Fish the Way My Mommy Made It
Makes 8 to 10 servings
Classic Demi Glace Recipe
I am a huge fan of demi-glace for preparing classic sauces like mushroom or peppercorn sauce but I have to warn you, it is a huge process to make classic demi glace at home. It is not for the faint of heart but well worth the effort – at least once.
Demi-glace is a richly concentrated brown stock that is carefully reduced until it forms a deep meaty flavored glaze. You start by roasting a lot of meat bones (veal & beef) to make a basic brown stock that takes hours and hours to simmer and reduce.
And you have to make a lot of it because you need a bunch of it to prepare a classic Espagnole sauce but then some more to make the demi glace. Confusing right?
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A classic demi glace is a combination of Espagnole sauce with brown stock that is slowly reduced by half. You must take your time reducing the demi glace to prevent burning which would ruin the sauce and you would have to start over.
Making demi glace at home, in culinary school or a high end restaurant is arduous and extremely time consuming but when done right, the backbone of most of the world’s greatest sauces.
It is one of the first lessons taught at some culinary schools because it teaches students about ingredients, reductions, detail and patience. As a culinary student or home cook, you’re likely to spend many hours preparing this important ingredient.
How to Make Demi Glace at Home
Over time, there have been many variations for preparing demi-glace until Auguste Escoffier standardized it in his Le Guide Culinaire, but I think this recipe adapted from The Food Network is a good one for anyone preparing it at home.
Most restaurant chefs make a big batch of demi glace because they use it in a lot of recipes and it takes a lot of work.
There is no real shortcut for classic demi glace, you have to roast a lot of bones, simmer the liquids for hours, reduce, reduce and reduce some more. I’m sure you are looking at this recipe that calls for starting with 1 gallon of brown stock and 1 gallon of Espagnole sauce to finish with a gallon of demi glace and thinking, No Way and I don’t blame you.
This means you have to start with 2 gallons of brown stock, 1 for the Espagnole sauce and 1 for the demi glace.
You could try cutting the ingredients in half or even quarter them. This will reduce the overall amount of time it will take to prepare classic demi glace plus you won’t be filling your freezer with small containers of the stuff but it still takes a lot of work to do it right.
- 1kg fish bones, chopped down into 5cm pieces and cleaned
- 1 leek, white parts only, chopped
- 1/2 fennel, chopped
- 1 stick of celery, chopped
- 1 small onion, chopped
- 1/2 garlic bulb
- 500ml of white wine
- 6 white peppercorns, (you can also use pink peppercorns for a more floral flavour)
- 1 tsp fennel seeds
- 1 sheet of kombu, (optional)
- 2 bay leaves
- parsley stalks
- 1 handful of dill
- 1 handful of tarragon
- 2 slices of lemon
- The first step is to peel the carrots, leek and onion.
- Then, place a stewpot on mid fire and pour an oil jet on top. Add the prawns and soak.
- Add water, vegetables, hake head and rapes.
- Cook on mid fire and constantly remove the steam from the surface.
- Cook for 1 ½ hours. It is possible to cover it but it is recommendable to uncover it when it is half cooking to avoid the water evaporation.
- As last, strain the stock or fumet to remove the vegetables and fish pieces.
If you usually include fish stock or fumet in your recipes it is possible to freeze it in small portions. Then it will be ready to be used whenever you need some. It can also be used as base of a substantial fish soup.
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